Anubias: The Complete Care Guide for Every Variety

Anubias is one of the most beloved aquarium plants in the hobby—and once you grow it, you'll understand why. With thick, dark green leaves that resist plant-eating fish, an ability to thrive in almost total darkness, and zero substrate requirements, Anubias is the closest thing to a foolproof aquarium plant. This guide covers every Anubias variety, care requirement, and aquascaping technique you need to know.

What Is Anubias?

Anubias is a genus of semi-aquatic plants native to tropical Central and West Africa. Named after the Egyptian god Anubis (associated with the afterlife), these plants grow along riverbanks and stream beds, often partially or fully submerged. Like Java Fern, Anubias is an epiphyte—it grows on surfaces rather than in soil, using a thick horizontal rhizome to creep along driftwood and rocks.

Popular Anubias Varieties

Why Anubias Is Perfect for Any Aquarium

• Nearly indestructible — Tolerates extreme low light, no CO2, and neglect
• Fish-proof — Thick, tough leaves that cichlids, goldfish, and plecos won't eat
• No substrate needed — Epiphyte that attaches to driftwood and rocks
• Incredibly slow grower — Once placed, it stays where you put it for months
• Beautiful variety — From coin-sized Nana Petite to 2-foot Gigantea, there's a size for every tank
• Flowers underwater — Produces small white spadix flowers (similar to peace lilies) when healthy

Anubias Care Requirements

The #1 Rule: Never Bury the Rhizome

Just like Java Fern, Anubias grows from a horizontal rhizome that must stay exposed. Burying the rhizome in substrate causes it to rot and die. Always attach Anubias to hardscape—driftwood, rocks, or decorations—with the rhizome fully visible above the substrate line.

Lighting

Anubias is one of the best plants for low-light aquariums. It actually performs better in subdued lighting—under intense light, the slow-growing leaves become magnets for algae. Position Anubias in shaded areas, under floating plants, or on the lower portions of driftwood structures. If your tank has high light, pair it with fast-growing plants that absorb excess nutrients.

Water Parameters

Anubias adapts to virtually any freshwater conditions. It handles both soft and hard water, acidic and alkaline pH, and tropical to subtropical temperatures. This flexibility makes it suitable for community tanks, cichlid setups, blackwater biotopes, and even mildly brackish aquariums.

How to Plant Anubias

Attaching to Driftwood

1. Choose a piece of driftwood with a flat surface or crevice
2. Position the rhizome flat against the wood with roots facing the attachment surface
3. Secure using super glue gel (fastest, most reliable), cotton thread, or fishing line
4. Roots will grip the wood within 3–6 weeks

Check out our pre-mounted Anubias on driftwood—ready to drop in your tank.

Attaching to Rocks

Super glue gel works best on stone. Anubias looks stunning on dark lava rock, dragon stone, and seiryu stone where the green leaves contrast against dark or gray surfaces.

Tucking into Crevices

For a natural look, wedge the rhizome into cracks and crevices in your hardscape. The roots will eventually grow into the gaps and hold the plant firmly in place. No glue or thread needed with this method—gravity and root growth do the work.

Anubias Propagation

Anubias propagates through rhizome division:

1. Wait until the rhizome is at least 4–5 inches long with 5+ healthy leaves
2. Using a sharp, clean blade, cut the rhizome into sections
3. Each section needs at least 3 leaves and some roots to thrive
4. Reattach each piece to hardscape and allow to grow independently

Because Anubias grows slowly, propagation is a patience game. Expect to divide a plant every 6–12 months at most. Trying to divide too aggressively stunts growth and can damage the plant.

Common Problems and Solutions

Algae Growth on Leaves

The #1 Anubias challenge. Because leaves grow so slowly and last for months, algae (especially green spot algae and black beard algae) has plenty of time to colonize them. Prevention:

• Keep lighting low to moderate
• Maintain good water circulation
• Add fast-growing plants to absorb excess nutrients
• Include algae-eating crew: Nerite snails, Otocinclus, Amano shrimp
• Reduce photoperiod to 6–7 hours if algae is persistent

Treatment: Gently scrub affected leaves with a soft toothbrush, or spot-treat with hydrogen peroxide or liquid carbon.

Yellowing Leaves

Indicates nutrient deficiency, typically iron or potassium. Old leaves yellow naturally as the plant redirects nutrients to new growth—this is normal. If multiple leaves yellow simultaneously, add an all-in-one liquid fertilizer.

Rhizome Rot

Almost always caused by burying the rhizome in substrate. If you notice soft, mushy spots on the rhizome, cut away all affected tissue with a sterile blade until you reach firm, green tissue. Reattach the healthy portion to hardscape with the rhizome fully exposed.

Melting After Purchase

Some leaf melting is normal when transitioning from emersed (nursery-grown above water) to submersed growth. Emersed leaves may yellow and die off while new submersed leaves grow in. This process can take 4–8 weeks. Don't remove the plant—be patient and new adapted leaves will emerge from the rhizome.

Anubias in Different Tank Setups

Cichlid Tanks

Anubias is one of the only plants that survives with aggressive cichlids. The tough, bitter leaves are unappetizing, and attachment to rocks means cichlids can't uproot it during territory disputes. Use larger varieties (Barteri, Congensis) for African cichlid tanks.

Betta Tanks

Bettas love resting on broad Anubias leaves near the surface. Nana and Nana Petite are perfect for smaller betta tanks (5–10 gallons). The smooth leaves won't snag delicate betta fins.

Nano Tanks

Anubias Nana Petite is the go-to for tanks under 10 gallons. Its tiny leaves (smaller than a dime) create a proportional, natural look in small spaces. Attach several pieces across a small piece of driftwood for a miniature forest effect.

Shrimp Tanks

Shrimp love grazing biofilm off Anubias's broad leaf surfaces. The slow growth means leaves accumulate a healthy biofilm layer that provides constant foraging. Baby shrimp hide in the root structure beneath the rhizome.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can Anubias grow in gravel?

You can place Anubias so its roots reach into gravel, but the rhizome itself must never be buried. Position the plant so the rhizome sits on top of the substrate with roots extending down. Better yet, attach it to driftwood or rocks above the substrate line.

Why is my Anubias not growing?

Anubias is naturally very slow. Producing one new leaf every 2–3 weeks is normal. If you see zero new leaves for months, check that the rhizome isn't buried, ensure adequate (even minimal) lighting, and add a liquid fertilizer. Patience is key with this plant.

Can Anubias grow out of water?

Yes. Anubias is actually a semi-aquatic plant that grows both above and below water. In paludariums and terrariums, it thrives with its roots in water and leaves in humid air. It may even flower more readily when grown emersed.

How do I get Anubias to flower?

Anubias flowers when it's healthy and well-established. Ensure stable conditions, provide occasional fertilization, and be patient. The white spadix flower resembles a tiny peace lily and can last several weeks. Flowering is more common in emersed growth but happens underwater too.

Is Anubias safe for all fish?

Yes. Anubias is non-toxic and safe for all freshwater fish, shrimp, and snails. Its tough leaves make it one of the few plants that even plant-destructive fish like cichlids and goldfish typically leave alone.